tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-337612402024-03-07T15:49:39.012-08:00Fashion SolutionsStories from my legacy of 60 years as a high fashion designer, engineer & manufacturer – how I solved creative design problems. I’ll answer questions, technical, creative, marketing, business, for free. The purpose is to help young designers with identity, technical, business & market solutions, in an increasingly difficult industry. My long-term dream is to redesign the American Fashion Apparel Industry, and to do it by mentoring young designers.Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.comBlogger58125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-2662471862999723032018-12-10T09:32:00.004-08:002018-12-10T09:36:12.587-08:00Shirley's Design Engineering, continuedHere's the next steps and the finished jacket. I will reply to any questions or comments. I love to teach.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5o9npyLv73ViILc83ya-79zKJKPVLa_dK3GMcRhIDqmqoBKCnlccafoXQFTnp4_zeNgpnu23NSsoUbFSvbtTXbKzimCG9BwjXEz1XV2hk9Tdo00_60UPQDcdmJiyVAXZwlUagUA/s1600/Finished+Jacket.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="667" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5o9npyLv73ViILc83ya-79zKJKPVLa_dK3GMcRhIDqmqoBKCnlccafoXQFTnp4_zeNgpnu23NSsoUbFSvbtTXbKzimCG9BwjXEz1XV2hk9Tdo00_60UPQDcdmJiyVAXZwlUagUA/s400/Finished+Jacket.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-16436703855796255652018-12-05T11:51:00.000-08:002018-12-05T11:51:00.599-08:00Follow Shirley's Design EngineeringLet's have some fun and some learning. I have created, making/engineering the pattern, and constructing the new style. The following graphic shows the sketch, the Blazer Template used as a foundation and the new muslin pattern in a Raglan Sleeve, a size 16 and with the new unique collar over lapel idea. The jacket is being finished now and will show the next exciting steps this weekend - through all the pattern and construction steps. Please comment, ask questions and let me know your interest to help keep me going. Thank you my readers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR9YLivVBnsF9Lkv_vROdVFXuuy560AlS5G3phZFDPODCdTldVJfEFs9TrfpjeHhZsNhzpkegXtORpbuuX-D1HbPGYV_ZQnNOAZcAMQsk6ffpDjNh6PYBHps0gpf9SlPFoU7RSSg/s1600/Leath+%2526+Suede+1+tp+3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="685" data-original-width="411" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR9YLivVBnsF9Lkv_vROdVFXuuy560AlS5G3phZFDPODCdTldVJfEFs9TrfpjeHhZsNhzpkegXtORpbuuX-D1HbPGYV_ZQnNOAZcAMQsk6ffpDjNh6PYBHps0gpf9SlPFoU7RSSg/s640/Leath+%2526+Suede+1+tp+3.png" width="380" /></a></div>
<br />Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-58331459190167830162018-11-22T06:17:00.001-08:002018-11-22T06:17:20.923-08:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>To All My Readers:</b></div>
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<b>Have a wonderful Thanksgiving, 2018</b></div>
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<b>Shirley Willett</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvwWjsR-QLXhPRkyP_P7wxAx6RNacwEg_IMPp9j0U5kQkN5I4IpeGXlMmp6lSPuicbrzmAsmEDFHC-c7TW3T0izkCayISOUj-l5SM5lVIxzYe8_BnQnKM9uG8Z-T6p3IE2EQiBg/s1600/2.+Thanksgiving.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="366" data-original-width="545" height="427" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvwWjsR-QLXhPRkyP_P7wxAx6RNacwEg_IMPp9j0U5kQkN5I4IpeGXlMmp6lSPuicbrzmAsmEDFHC-c7TW3T0izkCayISOUj-l5SM5lVIxzYe8_BnQnKM9uG8Z-T6p3IE2EQiBg/s640/2.+Thanksgiving.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-32764378716842013862018-10-29T09:31:00.002-07:002018-10-29T09:31:47.180-07:00<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<b><i><span style="color: #c0504d; font-size: 16pt;">RED SOX, World Series Champs, from 2004 to 2018 <o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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In 2018 must show you this photo again. 2004 Red Sox Champs against the Cardinals being congratulated by 1967, when the Red Sox got into the World Series but didn’t win it. Shirley Willett in 1967 designed the outfit, inspired by the Red Sox. In 2004 she designed the outfit to show the World Series win, and both were shown in a fashion show that year. The photo is by Ron Ranere. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-60695614866895777852017-11-11T09:42:00.004-08:002018-07-31T06:52:21.522-07:00"PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE: Fashion Memoir, 70 Years..." My book is published. It is my legacy to all of you in fashion - of Design, Education, Engineering, Manufacturing & Technology. Remember that the past teaches the present how to redesign the future. Not only is it directed to help you develop and grow, but also the proceeds will go to scholarships in fashion. You can buy it at <span style="color: purple; font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 14pt;"><a href="http://www.pastpresentfuturebook.com/" style="color: purple; font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://www.pastpresentfuturebook.com</a></span><br />
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Please come to the next great event of my Boston Fashion Meetup, at WeWork, 625 Mass Ave. Cambridge, Aug. 22, 2018. First I will read and demo my book, then we will have great networking with ten well-known and in diverse aspects of the fashion industry. It is free, but you need an ID to get in to the building. More info. at <a href="https://www.meetup.com/BostonFashion/" style="color: purple; font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">https://www.meetup.com/BostonFashion/</span></a><br />
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We look forward to seeing you all there. Best wishes to all, Shirley<br />
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Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-33992854260760871002017-05-23T11:10:00.000-07:002017-05-23T11:11:55.010-07:00MY FAMOUS BALL COAT IN 1968As I was searching through some recent folders I came across this ball coat worn by Vogue Italia editor, Franca Sozzani - in a photo of the Boston Globe, March 29, 2012. I certainly beat the timing of her ball coat with my ball coat designed in a collection in 1968. I designed the white mink helmet and the "boottops over shoes" to go with - very 1960s.<br />
Please remember we are still open to more students to learn fashion design patterns online <i>free, </i>and cooperate with us on a book. For more information email
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<br />Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-51847877851562206662017-04-24T09:31:00.000-07:002017-04-24T09:31:54.104-07:00“Making It “ In Fashion Design<h2>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Lucida Calligraphy"; font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Apple Chancery"; mso-fareast-language: JA;">How</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Apple Chancery"; font-size: 20.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;"> Do You “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Make It</i> “ In Fashion Design?</span></b></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">Be a part of writing
an exciting fashion design book. D</span>esigners, consumers, students and
beginners (who sew), who would like to learn <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>online free</u></i></b> by
cooperating with<span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"> Shirley Willett, </span><a href="http://www.shirleywillett.com/"><b><span style="color: #386eff; mso-fareast-language: JA;">www.shirleywillett.com</span></b></a><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">, a well- known industry expert in creative design, pattern engineering,
manufacturing, and education.</span> Her unique methods are needed <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>to make it</u>,</i> have been tested over
60 years, and are easy, fun and rewarding. We start with brief and introductory
<u><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">Foundation Design Skills</span></u><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"> that prepare you for our methods: <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Inner Visualization, Manual Skills,
Creativity </b>in every step, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Self-Evaluation
</b>techniques, etc. Then we go to in depth lessons: <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Templates</b> that make perfect first patterns ready for production,
simple <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Pattern manipulation </b>techniques<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">,</b> methods for <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Draping</b> creative styles, <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Truing</b>
for accuracy, and many special lessons on Bodices, Skirts, Dresses, Sleeves,
Collars, Blazer, Pants, etc. </span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">Email </span><a href="mailto:fashionclass@shirleywillett.com">fashionclass@shirleywillett.com</a><span class="MsoHyperlink"> </span><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">to request becoming
a part of our cooperative book effort, telling us about yourself, and what you
want to learn.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-22055402415687431072017-04-05T05:20:00.000-07:002017-04-05T05:20:07.198-07:00How Do You “Make It “ In Fashion design?<h2>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Lucida Calligraphy"; font-size: 20.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Apple Chancery"; mso-fareast-language: JA;">How</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Apple Chancery"; font-size: 20.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;"> Do You “<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Make It</i> “ In Fashion design?</span></b></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"> Be a part of writing a special book. You learn fashion design and pattern
making <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">free</i> </b>online from Shirley Willett, a well- known industry expert
in creative design, pattern engineering and manufacturing. </span><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">Website: </span><a href="http://www.shirleywillett.com/"><b><span style="color: #386eff; mso-fareast-language: JA;">www.shirleywillett.com</span></b></a><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">. </span></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;"><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">We learn by cooperation and begin with <u>Foundation Design Skills</u> needed
in many industries: automobiles, aerospace, architecture, and <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">fashion
clothing</i></b>. They relate to the <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">making</i></b> of a creative product, are
easily achieved, and make learning and designing fun and rewarding. Then we
advance to specific fashion skills in depth: Templates, Pattern making,
Draping, Truing, Sleeves, Collars, etc. </span></span></div>
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</span><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">
</span><span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Why a book?
Shirley Willett answers:</u></b></div>
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After selling my high fashion
design & manufacturing business in the early 80s, I went back to teaching and
wanted to share the knowledge and expertise from experiences. I wrote a book,
“Let’s Design A Dress”. It had to be taken off the market after using some of
its innovations in three engineering design grant awards from the National
Science Foundation. </div>
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Throughout these years I mentored
many protégés, some of whom have been very successful. I discovered that
certain approaches to fashion and technical design are needed <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><u>to make it</u>,</i> but are not taught in
fashion schools and colleges – leading to another book idea. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left; text-indent: 0.5in;">
The book will be cooperation with protégés,
designers, consumers, and even beginners (who sew). To those of you especially who
would like to become designers, possible protégés, & better consumers,
please become a part of producing our exciting, authentic book. </div>
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<br /></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>How do you start?</u></b></div>
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<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>First,
email <a href="mailto:fashionclass@shirleywillett.com">fashionclass@shirleywillett.com</a><span class="MsoHyperlink"> and</span> subscribe to postings of lessons, to be sure you
get each posting as they are created. Each post will be a lesson, with the
first five being the FDS (Fundamental Design Skills). You can respond by email
to <a href="mailto:fashionclass@shirleywillett.com">fashionclass@shirleywillett.com</a>
with questions and comments, and let us know if there is anything more that
could help you with learning on this particular lesson. If you send pictures,
it is best by email. If a reply needs pictures and will be good for others as
well, it will go into the book with your name (if you choose). If it is more
personal and no pictures are needed we will reply to you personally. If
personal and requires pictures in the explanation, we will charge a small fee
to develop them specifically for you. We look forward to some great teamwork on
the book. Eventually we can work together to develop your ideas into beautiful,
producible, marketable styles at affordable prices – as the book is written.</div>
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>
</u></b><br />
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-fareast-language: JA;">
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<br /></div>
</span><br />
<br />Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-89097363648317946832016-07-27T09:54:00.002-07:002016-07-27T09:54:48.973-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><span style="font-size: 20.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">Pattern & Production Engineering in High Fashion
Design - <o:p></o:p></span></b><b><span style="font-size: 18.0pt;">Creativity, Fun & Success with the
Technical</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">SHIRLEY WILLETT </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><a href="http://www.shirleywillett.com/">shirleywillett.com</a> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">TESS COBURN </span><a href="http://www.teresacrowninshield.com/"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">teresacrowninshield.com</span></a><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">MELANIE ANDERSON </span><a href="http://koochiku.com/"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">koochiku.com</span></a><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">ANN RUSSO </span><a href="http://annrusso.wordpress.com/"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">annrusso.wordpress.com</span></a><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 14pt;">PHILIP SAWYER </span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><a href="http://www.philipsawyer.com/">philipsawyer.com</a></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>See
more: </span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://www.meetup.com/BostonFashion">http://www.meetup.com/BostonFashion</a></span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: 18.0pt;">You are invited - Host is SHIRLEY WILLETT</span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Thursday,
August 25, 2016, </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">6:00 PM,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">FREE to attend.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<!--EndFragment--><br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="mso-field-code: " HYPERLINK \0022https\:\/\/maps\.google\.com\/maps?f=q&hl=en&q=655+Boylston+Street%2C+Boston%2C+MA%2C+02116%2C+us\0022 \\o \0022\0022 \\t \0022_blank\0022 ";"><span class="MsoHyperlink">The Charlesmark at Copley</span></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">655
Boylston Street, Boston, MA <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Elements to be covered include:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">1.
Mass production solutions in 3D and 4D for creativity and quality<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">2.
Creative 3D solutions in fashion design and engineering<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">3.
Creating your fabric<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">4.
Designing for consumers<o:p></o:p></span></b><br />
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your business cards! Seminar starting at 6:30pm: Five experts in the field will
present their designs and share their knowledge of the technical side of
creation in the high fashion industry. Old world techniques work in
collaboration with modern technology to achieve impeccable results.</span></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-21094069165757048662015-04-23T07:15:00.001-07:002015-04-23T07:21:42.817-07:00Panorama of 50 years of vintage styles.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis332Xl4ZidzXIbBAlRBN1rrrSxai9ggds1nhbIAENfyktMaHMzuO_U4cpCk9FWTo4rhRD_Kn9rNBY6KUmwHOB2SE9koEOSBscQeG6aQh-gMjRrJXYmtEXZRrhgukopnmOuq0ilw/s1600/Facebook+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis332Xl4ZidzXIbBAlRBN1rrrSxai9ggds1nhbIAENfyktMaHMzuO_U4cpCk9FWTo4rhRD_Kn9rNBY6KUmwHOB2SE9koEOSBscQeG6aQh-gMjRrJXYmtEXZRrhgukopnmOuq0ilw/s1600/Facebook+cover.jpg" height="92" width="400" /></a></div>
A panorama of some of my fifty years of vintage collections. I will gradually have larger photos and many more in an album. Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-11351813450665818452015-02-28T10:52:00.000-08:002015-02-28T10:52:04.849-08:00“Color Codification of Emotional Energies”<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRE7sAbXC366aqHeZKGAgy0S25Lq3fdeEVOd_4kwmXA39vG2-mg2yBX35PDFr4SZSRyOylt8SsAbmakiGPHj_P_D6dbEECZJdpWPbU1wmu36hnFAV1Scukq36itIuoJF1IolLIog/s1600/My+Color-code+chart.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRE7sAbXC366aqHeZKGAgy0S25Lq3fdeEVOd_4kwmXA39vG2-mg2yBX35PDFr4SZSRyOylt8SsAbmakiGPHj_P_D6dbEECZJdpWPbU1wmu36hnFAV1Scukq36itIuoJF1IolLIog/s1600/My+Color-code+chart.png" height="294" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">There is nothing more exciting than being quoted by another scientist
in academia, when you have innovated a new theory. I designed this chart for a
conference, “Innovations”, sponsored by Boston University, October 29-30, 2002.
I explained, “</span><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Energy follows thought</span></i></b><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="color: black; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">. </span></i><span style="color: black; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">When we use our will to take control over
thoughts, they take control over our emotional energies, which in turn, control
chemical releases in the brain<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">. </i>The
first step toward mastery, the long term goal, is to become conscious of every
emotion we experience as we experience them.”</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: black; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Ashley Wilkie, in a blog for a UK university quoted me and my
color chart, December 15, 2014: “</span><span style="color: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt; mso-fareast-language: JA;">A table of colors with their properties
defined by <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Shirley Willett</b>, the
model presented is used as a guideline for the basic emotions with their
colors. The model that she presents, figure 3, has many overlaps with the data
found from Claudia Cortes work with the only difference it reduces the list to
the basics. (Jiang and Bian 2013, pp.189-194)” [Note: Wilkie eliminated “Joy”
from my original. </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><a href="http://ashleywilkie.co.uk/blog/?tag=design&paged=2">http://ashleywilkie.co.uk/blog/?tag=design&paged=2</a>
]</span></div>
</div>
Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-57692355713370299042014-09-25T07:55:00.000-07:002014-09-25T08:01:40.962-07:00MARILYN & ME<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJY2WMENfVxLxd4ezbRj6O7f-Rb3HdjqnBOkPij9UIV7IZr7xnLoH_px38x1EtnUFKyS6tMsQYRbJqwuJ5OlzPdOyPQRCtSX21BxDO51J1zkJrwZ33hiUoqKu1tofSiCGjsXAV8Q/s1600/Marilyn+&+Me.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJY2WMENfVxLxd4ezbRj6O7f-Rb3HdjqnBOkPij9UIV7IZr7xnLoH_px38x1EtnUFKyS6tMsQYRbJqwuJ5OlzPdOyPQRCtSX21BxDO51J1zkJrwZ33hiUoqKu1tofSiCGjsXAV8Q/s1600/Marilyn+&+Me.png" height="305" width="400" /></a></div>
This photo of Marilyn Riseman and me was taken in 2009 at Massachusetts College of Art. Sadly Marilyn has left us, but she was a wonderful supporter of fashion and creativity - and especially of me as a designer in the 1960s and early 70s for her many Apogee stores. She used me for excellent pattern making and production as well as my many creative styles, Marilyn and I were talking memories here and agreed that the 60s and 70s was a wonderful time for fashion in Boston.<br />
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Jay Calderin, Founder & Director of Boston Fashion Week, dedicated it to Marilyn this year. You can see more at <https: ostonfashionweek="" www.facebook.com=""> <i>Boston Fashion Week - on Facebook. </i></https:>Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-41931002535148465182013-06-18T10:28:00.000-07:002013-06-18T10:32:58.149-07:00My 80th birthday celebration with proteges and fashion meet up friends<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEQ8o6tF-hE-0ql1Sc1BFnDIdyIiie2XvRoqmdX9JndIqxfcsRf_PBWYTBHfqUETn3tikGWuQuruI0JnNYswkN24Bug-EGBfZuARs_Fp1MtvNb1rCyf1uupWhZvZ_GLqI7pyucJQ/s1600/My+80th+b'day,+proteges+&+friends.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEQ8o6tF-hE-0ql1Sc1BFnDIdyIiie2XvRoqmdX9JndIqxfcsRf_PBWYTBHfqUETn3tikGWuQuruI0JnNYswkN24Bug-EGBfZuARs_Fp1MtvNb1rCyf1uupWhZvZ_GLqI7pyucJQ/s400/My+80th+b'day,+proteges+&+friends.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
It was the greatest birthday celebration, at the Charlesgate Hotel, by the Boston Fashion Industry Meetup. On the left is Ann Steeves (Gorgeousfabrics.com) then me. On the right are 3 proteges, Ann Russo (Technical Design Services), Tess Coburn (Teresacrowninshield.com) and Mika Nakafuji.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGMiuLnwzV2dljNCMpyq8BXjtIxxjpV-ZsMISHrucTLjuoR-0ud9qObH7hVnQVNNJIs98GjTzsYP3KI-bmCRCp3hxahzhKRfVcgmbajPfJFEpMWJRziqD9z6Iec-M288-R-K4Ow/s1600/Ron,+me+&+Charline.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZGMiuLnwzV2dljNCMpyq8BXjtIxxjpV-ZsMISHrucTLjuoR-0ud9qObH7hVnQVNNJIs98GjTzsYP3KI-bmCRCp3hxahzhKRfVcgmbajPfJFEpMWJRziqD9z6Iec-M288-R-K4Ow/s320/Ron,+me+&+Charline.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBUMKMDzkLhJsIRBPfwF8D6Vcon_ofw87krrhfPPiooC_mymwIX_RBSR7thpGQ01vzHovbjGfwGgcuvMoEvcOmEGWsBsPjYbUQBXDqqaJ_2myVIt03RWbEzply9NY7DmoS4FHzjA/s1600/B'day+cake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBUMKMDzkLhJsIRBPfwF8D6Vcon_ofw87krrhfPPiooC_mymwIX_RBSR7thpGQ01vzHovbjGfwGgcuvMoEvcOmEGWsBsPjYbUQBXDqqaJ_2myVIt03RWbEzply9NY7DmoS4FHzjA/s320/B'day+cake.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Here's two of my favorite people. Ron Ranere, who started the Boston Fashion Industry Meetup with me in 2004 and a great photographer - and his wife, Charline, both who have done so much for me.<br />
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The delicious birthday cake made by Kathleen Wright, another protege, who, unfortunately could not make the celebration.<br />
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Thank, thank you to all.Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-58142092741067309282013-03-08T11:34:00.000-08:002013-03-08T11:34:09.612-08:00True Fashion Design is a Moving 3-D Sculpture<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvmQmAHP71Prd6w4zJWPTR6VtuamfWpZ4GAQmaRPID0Sek9x4BYuKKZJcRyOM4FH8ZbOUTAbbrACAX0MS5Am5-Rp2PQ1MQKUIEOOqO_y7DmIUF1U9aCDQd2ErX-QOtEOzCLp9xNw/s1600/Beauiful+sculpture+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvmQmAHP71Prd6w4zJWPTR6VtuamfWpZ4GAQmaRPID0Sek9x4BYuKKZJcRyOM4FH8ZbOUTAbbrACAX0MS5Am5-Rp2PQ1MQKUIEOOqO_y7DmIUF1U9aCDQd2ErX-QOtEOzCLp9xNw/s200/Beauiful+sculpture+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCj8J_lI6hAQV5d5kFb2W6RYryrzd4VNouUgWM86HSeBEHn6tCx0lrKOIb9_fvXOOm4rHXpormyboc8a-ARjyOv95s-97smxvqxUNb5z4jkxUrssBmoDFfivZnbr5NEdLUpt5yw/s1600/Cape-sleeve+dress.+jpeg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOCj8J_lI6hAQV5d5kFb2W6RYryrzd4VNouUgWM86HSeBEHn6tCx0lrKOIb9_fvXOOm4rHXpormyboc8a-ARjyOv95s-97smxvqxUNb5z4jkxUrssBmoDFfivZnbr5NEdLUpt5yw/s320/Cape-sleeve+dress.+jpeg.jpg" width="260" /></a><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">The Boston Globe had a
photo today of </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">(above) </span>one of the most beautiful stoneware sculpture by H.
Nakashima at the Museum of Fine Arts. It prompted me to think about the
beautiful 3-D curves in great fashion design. Nakashima’s sculpture
has a <i>feeling of motion</i></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> in
observing it, but fashion is greatest when on a <i>moving</i> human body.</span> <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcUX-rp3HXu4N9SYygnTWgJ9mPy5ECBMgIlvh36c5j4mDFjzFFkyV18N1k0CvCVr4XGw8ulgWuqJkY8NlABDT-9rbhHtem3PPrEK_6hE_L10YDhAy8Dvh_DZKH3ly1ZnX1anDgg/s1600/Sunburst+dress,+jpeg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcUX-rp3HXu4N9SYygnTWgJ9mPy5ECBMgIlvh36c5j4mDFjzFFkyV18N1k0CvCVr4XGw8ulgWuqJkY8NlABDT-9rbhHtem3PPrEK_6hE_L10YDhAy8Dvh_DZKH3ly1ZnX1anDgg/s400/Sunburst+dress,+jpeg.jpg" width="223" /></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> <style><!--
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">One of my proudest 3-D fashion
sculptures is a 6-ply pure silk crepe I sold to Neiman-Marcus in 1958. (left) The cape
sleeves start as a sleeve in the front, form a cape in the back and come around
to the front to finish as a sleeve. It moves beautifully when moving your arms.
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> Another of my favorites that
illustrates fashion as a great moving 3-D sculpture is my “Sunburst” dress, of
bright orange silk pesante.(left) The accordion pleating goes all around the body and
comes together in one point in the front, finishing with a sunburst pin. The
pleating had an amazingly beautiful motion as the woman walked. The photo was
in a full page article in the Boston Sunday Herald in 1962. It was also a
favorite of my customers, who bought many of them. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> Both of these styles required
great expertise in sculpting fabric in outer space, feeling the motion in <i>“inner
visualization”</i></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> – not fitting tightly
to a dress form or model, as so many young designers learn to do when draping
today – or when being committed to the <i>rules</i></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> of drafting. As Frank Gehry, the famous architect and
jewelry designer, said, “Beauty without rules.”</span></div>
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Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-9404444430619504082013-01-24T07:54:00.001-08:002013-01-24T07:54:41.916-08:00Tess's Coat at Obama's Inauguration<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjro_ktsXDDokTqGfIP1LkwRihPDGPqF326CKSkGg8pr5-03So5ywsOTCki0hGyaJIg_F9CjOGzLGhLLnLp037O313BXOuhkk2RMY-R3VPKlQKYi_H-D2sc9S7VlwXXiQhTgVDyow/s1600/Tess's+Coat,+inauguration,+NYT.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjro_ktsXDDokTqGfIP1LkwRihPDGPqF326CKSkGg8pr5-03So5ywsOTCki0hGyaJIg_F9CjOGzLGhLLnLp037O313BXOuhkk2RMY-R3VPKlQKYi_H-D2sc9S7VlwXXiQhTgVDyow/s320/Tess's+Coat,+inauguration,+NYT.png" width="232" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6cch7YJ4srPKofJZRCVYQA-KIvbP90XyoD3o9KwhJKGcfpMBM7y4NG_K-KKbKoyZgNA1P6XbTh5Bp-fg30ppTUyd02L246vUxq8fTwZQOhJnP2Jply7WF_gqA9XXOsyDxq3O4g/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-01-23+at+9.17.08+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6cch7YJ4srPKofJZRCVYQA-KIvbP90XyoD3o9KwhJKGcfpMBM7y4NG_K-KKbKoyZgNA1P6XbTh5Bp-fg30ppTUyd02L246vUxq8fTwZQOhJnP2Jply7WF_gqA9XXOsyDxq3O4g/s1600/Screen+shot+2013-01-23+at+9.17.08+AM.png" /></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> It is a proud moment for me as a mentor to see one of the coats designed by my great
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">protégé, Tess
Coburn, worn by one of her customers at the Obama inauguration. The
photo on the left is one of fifteen taken by the New York Times in their
January 22nd issue of our president's inauguration. The customer,
wearing Tess's coat is in the lower left hand corner. The photo on the
right is the same coat on a fashion model.</span> </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> Tess began independently while living as an English teacher in China, and in a few short years her collections have become very successful, growing the company 50% each year. She has been working with me, Shirley Willett, for the past 10 years, returning to China to produce each year . Recently, with her now great production knowledge, she produces in Massachusetts. </span><br />
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Many have asked about specific relationships in the way my
protégés and I, as their mentor, work. Each one is very different with special
needs and desires. It is not education itself, although some need more of my
teaching than others – but all of them need pieces of my deep knowledge and
experience, particularly in pattern making and production, and/or my unique
creative ability to solve their special problems. Whenever someone needs just
my knowledge to solve a specific problem, especially a business one, I consult,
but do not continue a relationship as a mentor, guiding them.</div>
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</style> I have had many protégés off and on over 50 odd years.
Presently I have four protégés, all in their own businesses and with different
degrees of success. Tess Coburn is my number one protege. She designs elegant silk and cashmere
jackets and coats. I met her through the Boston Fashion
Industry Meetup,
<b><u><a href="http://fashion.meetup.com/1/">http://fashion.meetup.com/1/</a></u></b> , for which I was the Organizer. She was doing
beautiful trimming but her jacket and coat shapes needed work. She began working with my
Stylometrics blazer jacket template, and all her jackets and coats since have great shape
and consistent good fit. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQsVIlhU9romzKANan5VGZsv5bVyCzjETGI1WPqgvH7espnvYC7pgQMaRuOEk3bqNNkQTqBd1zZVtDm3ipAKdRYEcJf3NS4D4xIFql3RizZEe_bFv3L1cKu4GXICO1HeQLO41SQ/s1600/Raglan+&+shawl+collar.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQsVIlhU9romzKANan5VGZsv5bVyCzjETGI1WPqgvH7espnvYC7pgQMaRuOEk3bqNNkQTqBd1zZVtDm3ipAKdRYEcJf3NS4D4xIFql3RizZEe_bFv3L1cKu4GXICO1HeQLO41SQ/s200/Raglan+&+shawl+collar.png" width="167" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-2mE_mIYs0Sedkxsd1JdVH7O0ke-FQi6RWCZyse3J9POmSJNPFqSQGv3AoBOLj1lnzmx8aWa9lxh_euoKrpqrjllz3Uxn1DQMkCVO7WEhb39Em9ojxeEbiX89i4VGJXPjYqKbSg/s1600/Tesse's+newest+jacket.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-2mE_mIYs0Sedkxsd1JdVH7O0ke-FQi6RWCZyse3J9POmSJNPFqSQGv3AoBOLj1lnzmx8aWa9lxh_euoKrpqrjllz3Uxn1DQMkCVO7WEhb39Em9ojxeEbiX89i4VGJXPjYqKbSg/s200/Tesse's+newest+jacket.png" width="125" /></a> Being very creative herself, I encouraged her to experiment
with new shaping. The photo on the top shows the studied develop-ment of a
beautiful raglan sleeve and a nicely shaped shawl collar. The next photo is recent and shows how her creativity with sleeves became a great line
in this elegant motorcycle type jacket. The elbow expansion shows her excellent
learning for great easy motion.<br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"> An email from Tess (2.5.10)
shows the closeness of our thinking:</span> <br />
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<i>Hi Shirley,</i></div>
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<i>Been thinking of you daily.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You are always present in my studio while I work-how would
Shirley drape that?, what would Shirley say about that line?, Shirley would say
it looks too bound up and it needs to be released, not tightened....:))</i></div>
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Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-72100095960500600912012-07-26T11:32:00.001-07:002012-07-26T11:37:55.906-07:00Boston Fashion Industry Meetup with Jay Calderin, Boston Fashion Week<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOvl6yOwvUSf6F8xbIaDzyMwE93KVZ4GaBNBzWqlShGoftYLtNgXLqAPVYKv4Du9KWuZ74zbAx6yy4UBQPTjE7r3JqglHZniPsI_fRVQX7NUrNbYrNKZzE0ntqA2-yI1h07yGAw/s1600/Jay+Calderin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOvl6yOwvUSf6F8xbIaDzyMwE93KVZ4GaBNBzWqlShGoftYLtNgXLqAPVYKv4Du9KWuZ74zbAx6yy4UBQPTjE7r3JqglHZniPsI_fRVQX7NUrNbYrNKZzE0ntqA2-yI1h07yGAw/s200/Jay+Calderin.jpg" width="197" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3X0WzT9CbvngQd9fzXDJrKGw2Ygyfn8pdHJB2076yjoXwAQxCBJUom3_WriRzLSAehq5q75uYC1R1zNWDhmSVhop-bhT-8VMbEa8pFZ6_9I3IbZuRxVoarKaV9zz6bjmiE5nQaw/s1600/BFIM+Organizers.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3X0WzT9CbvngQd9fzXDJrKGw2Ygyfn8pdHJB2076yjoXwAQxCBJUom3_WriRzLSAehq5q75uYC1R1zNWDhmSVhop-bhT-8VMbEa8pFZ6_9I3IbZuRxVoarKaV9zz6bjmiE5nQaw/s320/BFIM+Organizers.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">The group photo was taken by <i>Domenico,
</i></span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">at the Boston Fashion Industry
Meetup, July 24, 2012. We are the six organizers: Joseph Gualtiere, Vicky
Anson, John Bilotti, , yours truly, Shirley Willett, Kathy Benharris, and Ron
Ranere. If you want to know more about our meetup, go to </span><b><a href="http://fashion.meetup.com/1/">http://fashion.meetup.com/1/</a></b><span style="font-size: 14pt; font-weight: normal;"> We would love more fashion people, especially
designers, to join us.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 14pt;"> The other photo is Jay Calderin, founder and organizer of
Boston Fashion Week. He gave a great talk about all the exciting details of the
week in the fall. If you want to know more about Boston Fashion Week, go
to </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 16px;"><b><a href="http://www.bostonfashionweek.com/">http://www.bostonfashionweek.com/</a></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 14pt;">I have great news about
myself. I will be the feature article in the fall issue of Boston Common
Magazine. They are doing a Boston heritage issue and will talk about my
involvement as Boston’s number one designer in the 1950s and 1960s, and then my
suede manufacturing in the 1970s. I am not sure when the next issue comes out,
either August or September. If you want to know more, go to</span></span></div>
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</span></div>Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-24403002635108724252012-06-24T11:00:00.002-07:002012-06-24T11:00:23.716-07:00DIY (Do It Yourself) Manufacturing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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DIY (Do It Yourself) manufacturing is actually a very old idea brought to the 21st century through new technologies. A recent newsletter from IMT (Industry Market Trends) asks:<br />
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<b>"Is This the Era of DIY Manufacturing?"</b></div>
<i>Traditional models for manufacturing are rapidly evolving, as increasing demand for customized, individually-oriented products and the desire for "personal fabrication"</i> <i>capabilities are drivinga revolution in do-it-yourself production. Coupled with the latest advances in 3-D printing and digital fabrication, which are bringing sophisticated technologies into the home, the world many soon be entering a new era of DIY manufacturing. </i><br />
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Most of what is happening commercially is in industries other than apparel manufacturing, except in basic clothing. However, as IMT further discusses, "mixing traditional mass production with individual production", I am convinced, could really be the new future for creative design and manufacturing.There is a great deal to understand in order for what I call <b><i>mass customization </i></b>to evolve. And this is exactly what young creative fashion designer-entrepreneurs need, and the more creative and personal clothing consumers want, but at an affordable price.<br />
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I have personally been dreaming of these ideas in some ways, since the 1950s. And today, after a very successful manufacturing business of high fashion design for 20 years, I am still devoted to both the fashion consumers and to young fashion design-entrepreneurs, some of whom I mentor. In the early 1960s I composed a booklet <i><b>Creative Kits, </b></i>which shows my passion for consumers, and wanting them involved. Some pages from the booklet are seen below. The cover shows a suede trench coat that the consumer can put together themselves by punching holes in the right size of marks for them. They are supplied with rivets and the tool to rivet the coat together. No sewing! Just fun. Page 3 is a suede coat that is whipstitched together with suede lacing, and <i>me modeling. </i>You can figure that next year I will be 80!<br />
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The next one on page 5, was the best seller. They punched the holes according to a pattern, and were given various bright colored lacings to embroider with. Page 7 is a man's laced suede Eisenhower jacket, and page 20, riveted pants for both men or women. The crocheted vest, page 14, and the latticework vest, page 25, I also made complete ones for the store <b><i>Apogee,</i></b> owned by Marylyn Riseman - a very popular store on Newbury Street in the 1960s<br />
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I ask everyone to please study the past and help me and others with ideas for the future success of the apparel industry. Remember my slogan, <i><b>History teaches the present how to redesign the future</b></i>. I look forward to hearing from you. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2SeKDqqe08XnpB2lDDLrXbq7m-gSaKsR_DxNx89lRVxGgjLMKBtkeO6o0zGjTkxsGBA8r4l9QesCTAaxbA8-1LAs9JEOGF1Ekvx2Er76AbpwhWh8Osy_6lx5z9TJTWZzKdyQUCQ/s1600/1.+Creative+Kits,+jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2SeKDqqe08XnpB2lDDLrXbq7m-gSaKsR_DxNx89lRVxGgjLMKBtkeO6o0zGjTkxsGBA8r4l9QesCTAaxbA8-1LAs9JEOGF1Ekvx2Er76AbpwhWh8Osy_6lx5z9TJTWZzKdyQUCQ/s200/1.+Creative+Kits,+jpeg" width="119" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cover of booklet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaCN6wDSqdDRwyAEegJ47DLHS0IqVJdxDElaa8zrzSp5UHetU8iKbNRfLEIsRuNL3x3v1-1psRS9FvwUuKR3Yt61ymubFWfJRaro59WbWG9XMsDQfrDJIpDox4CfyGPkvbvY4-Vw/s1600/2.+Whipstitch+Coat,+Me.j..j" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaCN6wDSqdDRwyAEegJ47DLHS0IqVJdxDElaa8zrzSp5UHetU8iKbNRfLEIsRuNL3x3v1-1psRS9FvwUuKR3Yt61ymubFWfJRaro59WbWG9XMsDQfrDJIpDox4CfyGPkvbvY4-Vw/s200/2.+Whipstitch+Coat,+Me.j..j" width="91" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P3. Whipstitched coat</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">, </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimbKkR2Th5fBg8MlIxTUpN62WU3cHpUpR0yy0WQZSq6hPcVq6qv1pT0qJUjobDgUKE604TLyRpn8JNpg-GG7nQSlnWNHnhprwM0DNC1YwYwtdkvS_LheeEVEbpApkkYc6UIPNzag/s1600/3.+Embroidered+weskit" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimbKkR2Th5fBg8MlIxTUpN62WU3cHpUpR0yy0WQZSq6hPcVq6qv1pT0qJUjobDgUKE604TLyRpn8JNpg-GG7nQSlnWNHnhprwM0DNC1YwYwtdkvS_LheeEVEbpApkkYc6UIPNzag/s200/3.+Embroidered+weskit" width="112" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P5. Embroider weskit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPizk2tw2OSnRpQkPtlDivn1ItRPBjg6oE26HkKSGIND4GydLi2xfJWVFjobrh6c1BQfSD80-NXCEb9Euue1ls09f5KLKVihLN6o_kOEz91etpWpTYkUKYlaRsBDYROzX7ou6Myg/s1600/4.+Laced+Eisenhower+jacket.j" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPizk2tw2OSnRpQkPtlDivn1ItRPBjg6oE26HkKSGIND4GydLi2xfJWVFjobrh6c1BQfSD80-NXCEb9Euue1ls09f5KLKVihLN6o_kOEz91etpWpTYkUKYlaRsBDYROzX7ou6Myg/s200/4.+Laced+Eisenhower+jacket.j" width="161" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P7. Laced Eisenhower</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-X7GXRhv4TjZEmnYQNTJzeAaSy5CsC-Z3EeJCLxky1L42-_lJgHuJ5tgAool0yLjcsFUj3asWnnY4ostjfVpp4-hP0jr9FtNZPhTFXOugmvoTLbvnJDynP1ujk5fTjei3TH74-Q/s1600/5.+Men%27s,+Women%27s+Riveted+Pants.+j" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-X7GXRhv4TjZEmnYQNTJzeAaSy5CsC-Z3EeJCLxky1L42-_lJgHuJ5tgAool0yLjcsFUj3asWnnY4ostjfVpp4-hP0jr9FtNZPhTFXOugmvoTLbvnJDynP1ujk5fTjei3TH74-Q/s200/5.+Men%27s,+Women%27s+Riveted+Pants.+j" width="122" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P20. Riveted pants, M & F</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nVNXfbvMY9JFUKP88l9Bgaq8VlN-so6a_IFTsGSN1Ywfd8JoRWBh3WxwcAVMAvNc0Y_WXnqD8sQRsv7BGqZGEQ-BkZhcQKQETnseFFlLaM5AvchQJDJkyqWOBh4_SVCX81_xQQ/s1600/6.+Crocheted+vest,+jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5nVNXfbvMY9JFUKP88l9Bgaq8VlN-so6a_IFTsGSN1Ywfd8JoRWBh3WxwcAVMAvNc0Y_WXnqD8sQRsv7BGqZGEQ-BkZhcQKQETnseFFlLaM5AvchQJDJkyqWOBh4_SVCX81_xQQ/s200/6.+Crocheted+vest,+jpeg" width="153" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P14. Crocheted vest </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmZV9ZqtvInR1sqIl7MmdIu6mcpg_471nJPAzJdHQzL2zdPTvefryQOi9C7p3w7WttcpF49pW3t8hgDB44R-0f3ws_n9hB7Ccmpzno18wYFXkTsR3XS8w5lRH0IPXGm1qalCr7vw/s1600/7.+Latticework+vest.j" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmZV9ZqtvInR1sqIl7MmdIu6mcpg_471nJPAzJdHQzL2zdPTvefryQOi9C7p3w7WttcpF49pW3t8hgDB44R-0f3ws_n9hB7Ccmpzno18wYFXkTsR3XS8w5lRH0IPXGm1qalCr7vw/s200/7.+Latticework+vest.j" width="105" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P25. Latticework vest</td></tr>
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<br />Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-11943329862164083842012-06-02T07:18:00.000-07:002012-06-02T09:14:32.302-07:00DesignEd Symposium by DIGMA<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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DesignEd Symposium by DIGMA (Design Industry Group of Massachusetts</div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><i>May 4, 2012: There were some questions proposed to answer. The one that attracted me" How should Massachusetts design education evolve?"</i></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">[Photos by Jay Calderin, Boston Fashion Week & SFD.]</span></div>
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Rather than go into all the points about the question, I talked more about the critical problems that the fashion apparel industry was facing today, not only in Massachusetts, but all over the country and all over the world. It is not something that education alone can answer, but has serious consequences for fashion design students, who can no longer find jobs. I made the decision to send the following paper to a group of those who would be especially interested in the critical problems of the fashion apparel industry. It doesn't answer the problem, but <i>identifying the problem </i>is 50% of the solution. I hope my readers will read and think about possible solutions. And I will put some ideas in my next post. </div>
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">"History Teaches the Present How to Redesign the Future" </i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">(Shirley Willett) </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><b>__________________________________________________________________________________</b></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
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<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;">Pattern Design and Engineering is the Beginning and the Foundation for Fashion/Apparel as an Industry</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">The textile industry was
brought to America in the 19<sup>th</sup> century from England. But the apparel
industry is an American creation later in the Greater Boston area by Jewish
tailors. Prior to their efforts garments were made individually for each woman
by dressmakers. These Jewish tailors became <i>aware of some commonalty in the
shaping, fitting and making of garments, </i></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">and pattern making for production was born, one pattern to fit more than one woman. They developed
a mathematical sizing system to accommodate most women with very few patterns.
As businessmen they continued developing these patterns to become paper
“information systems” engineered to control quantities of exact reproductions
in cutting and stitching clothing in mass production systems. </span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">It was in the 1950’s,
graduating from college and working in the design rooms of New York, that I
learned something very different about fashion schools and colleges. Teachers were primarily “dressmakers”
and emulated the Paris couture system – and they taught this to other teachers,
becoming a narrowing circle of knowledge and experience. All workers hired in
design rooms were taught in schools, not from apprentice experience that taught
critical production knowledge. I easily excelled way beyond them with a technical
pattern expertise learned from my own experiments as a teenager coupled with
the knowledge of stitching in production. Creators of high fashion styles today
make “First Patterns”, which they spend endless time redoing for quality, but
never preparing for production. While creating high fashion styles my First
Patterns were “Engineered Patterns” to immediately reproduce creations into
ready made garments for cost-effective manufacturing. A positive effect from
these fashion schools is that America began producing more <i>creative </i></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">designers, but the negative effect is an ever
widening gap between creative design and pattern engineering. In my National
Science Foundation grants,1980s, I designed a graphic that explains it well: “<b>The
Wall Between Design and Manufacturing”. </b></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">By combining great creativity with unequaled technical expertise, I
became extremely successful as a high fashion designer and manufacturer of
quality designer clothing at low cost, selling nationally to all the top retailers
from the 1960s to the early 1980s. One driving point I continue to make in my
grants and to students is that decisions of marketing and production, costs and
quality must be made at the “Point of Design”. (P.O.D.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">
<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Unfortunately,
as Boston firms went south in the 1960s and then overseas in the 1980s, to
reduce increasingly heavy production costs, Boston's technical expertise faded
dramatically. No longer were there firms to apprentice pattern designers, so
pattern making was only taught in schools from books. Overseas manufacturers,
in Italy, France, London, and today in Japan, China and Korea, copied these
systems as well, but none of them learned it by hands on stitching and other
work in production that makes an expert pattern maker. The result is that today’s
pattern designers and engineers can reproduce the sameness of clothing design,
but cannot <b><i>create </i></b></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">technical pattern design and engineering systems, nor can they ever work
with <b><i>creative styling </i></b></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">to make them into efficient production systems. </span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">
<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Adding to the
demise of creative technical expertise are the CAD/CAM vendors selling
technology into the apparel industry production systems, which had to emphasize
“sameness” to justify the costs. Those elements that are mathematically oriented, such as
“grading of sizes”, and “marking of layouts” for cutting, are very efficient
technological systems. <i>But no CAD vendor has designed a pattern making
system that can deal with <b>creative styling, or fitting of differences in
women’s bodies</b></i></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><i>. </i></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">The result is that all over the world we have
an anathema of sameness in the
mass production market, and far out creativity that is enormously high
priced - with a gap that is an
ever-widening schism. </span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">
<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">When I sold my
manufacturing business in the 1980s and won the NSF grants, it was for the sole
purpose of using our great history in technical pattern design to create
technologies that <i>could work with and for, <b>creativity</b></i></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><i>. </i></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">I have been accepted all over the world for my creative technical
expertise, but not by the American fashion industry, nor by their schools. I
reached an apogee in representing the whole American fashion industry at an MIT
workshop on comparing design practices between industries. Now, in the 21<sup>st</sup>
century, I am determined to do whatever I can to “redesign the fashion industry
in America”, by teaching my “<b>Stylometrics Pattern Design” </b></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">and developing a system of apprentices to
become <b>Fashion Design Leaders.</b></span><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 14pt;"> </span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">
<span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Fashion schools
graduate thousands of fashion designers that can’t succeed in fashion
nationwide. Consumers are frustrated and bored with sameness, not finding
creative, quality fashions that will fit them without paying thousands of
dollars. Consumers are becoming involved in designing in various ways. I hope
that my creative methodologies will be adopted, and you will take them for your
personal success and to show others. </span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><br /></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="font-size: 18pt;"><b>The Wall Between </b></span></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span style="font-size: 18pt;"><b>Design </b></span></span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 24px;"><b>and </b></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 24px;"><b>Manufacturing</b></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">The plate and the text comes from a Willett paper, “<u>Syntax and Semantics of </u><u>an Image Communication Language for Design Management</u>’ presented at the Technical Design Conference of the American Society of Mechanical Engineers in 1990.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">For communication tools to be useful in design management, they must be based on a language that supports standardization of representation, linkage of production requirements to product representation, use of building blocks to avoid repetitive effort, and incorporation of syntactical information to aid in understanding of the represented product. The Stylometrics language was designed with these goals and purpose in mind. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">CAD technology has exacerbated the problem by developing programs for apparel design that have little regard for the users. Perhaps the primary cause of this wrong direction is the total lack of understanding and respect for what <b><i>design engineering </i></b><b><i>is, and what the design engineer does.</i> </b></span></div>
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</span></span></span></span></span></div>Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-4001781347021603892009-02-21T07:01:00.000-08:002009-02-21T09:46:27.420-08:00Problems in Fashion Design & Production – Ideas for Solutions<span style="font-style:italic;">The following paper was presented by the Organizer of Boston Fashion Industry Meetup, Shirley Willett, and founder of Boston Design Laboratory, February 19, 2009. The paper illustrates her continued commitment to create solutions for the problems and difficulties faced by young design entrepreneurs in the fashion industry today. See more at http://fashion.meetup.com/1/</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">THE GREATEST CHALLENGE TODAY FOR FASHION DEs IN AMERICA IS AFFORDABLE PRODUCTION.</span> <br /><br />1. Their production lots are too small to do it overseas – with expensive shipping costs, and paying someone to carefully watch quality control. <br />2. Production knowledge is not taught anywhere. In the past it was learned by apprentic-ing in the factories. All fashion schools teach 19th century couture for first patterns, which is the process done in the design rooms – making a wider and wider “wall” between de-sign and manufacturing. <br />3. DEs must increasingly do everything themselves, their own patterns, their own selling and increasingly their own stitching. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">MASS PRODUCTION AND “SAMENESS” EQUALS LOW-COST</span><br /><br /> Frederick Taylor at the turn of the 20th century developed mass production, especially for the auto industry. The basic condition was quantities of sameness. Ford was known to have said: “The customer can have any color they want but it must be black.” Mass production and factories in the apparel industry were developed by Jewish tailors in their patterns created for production of quantities of the <span style="font-weight:bold;">same </span>style. They continually developed ways for lower and lower costs. <br /> With the advent of the computer, design rooms disappeared and product development took its place. Everyone designed – sameness, and more sameness. Young DEs can not compete with the way all of them work today, producing one or very few of one style. The solution is to build a large <span style="font-weight:bold;">collaboration</span> of designers, whose patterns are all built on <span style="font-weight:bold;">one common set of standard (same) pattern templates (Stylometrics)</span>. There are many other ways to build some commonalties or sameness as the foundation,(fabric pooling) (systems for cutting and stitching) etc. while uniqueness, customization, and personalization can be done at a higher level. Boston Design Laboratory is committed to research and create ways to achieve affordable production. <br /> This system has not been done yet, but it CAN be done. Only it will take time and the right people – and commitment.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6PtUUm-0ZdxHsMPqSF25p19PuXomrvfLjo3Jp0VJoQb2LZY7CIw8e0MxPC7IyTi6ob1JJQQylaY6c9MMKcvQS2XI3qAkty8g_O8NLR1NTx2tR0W2XCgJBRZgRQf2EAxlpGU9HeA/s1600-h/Gown+%26+pattern,+jpeg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 238px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6PtUUm-0ZdxHsMPqSF25p19PuXomrvfLjo3Jp0VJoQb2LZY7CIw8e0MxPC7IyTi6ob1JJQQylaY6c9MMKcvQS2XI3qAkty8g_O8NLR1NTx2tR0W2XCgJBRZgRQf2EAxlpGU9HeA/s320/Gown+%26+pattern,+jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305269168173732978" /></a><br />The suede evening gown in the photo was designed in Shirley Willett’s manufacturing business in the 60s, 70s and 80s. She created a totally new production system with sketches on stitcher’s machines with numbers and letters. They made the shell of the gown in 15 minutes. Willett could not sell it that cheap so she made a 60% profit on each. The photo is by Ron Ranere www.positiveimage-boston.com<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">COSTING CAN HELP SEE THE PROBLEM CLEARLY.</span><br />1. Start with a competitive market price of a product – say $200 to the consumer.<br />2. 50% (often 60%) on average to the retailer. This leaves $100. Selling direct is better, but there is still costs and more labor involved – but reduced by <span style="font-weight:bold;">collaboration.</span><br />3. To be very general and using my mfg. business as example, make 50% for factory, design, pattern, and other overhead. (Overhead can be reduced substantially here by <span style="font-weight:bold;">collaboration</span>.) This leaves $50.<br />4. If splitting it to $25 for materials, trims and supplies, the materials must be bought wholesale in order to only spend $25 for a garment that the consumer will pay $200 for. This is do-able by collaborating and pooling resources. <br />5. That leaves only $25 for all labor costs, cutting stitching and pressing. Think of how fast it must be produced to make a quality $200 garment and still get a decent hourly wage. The only way this can be accomplished is in <span style="font-weight:bold;">production patterns, and collaborative production systems.</span><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">FIRST STEP TOWARD A SOLUTION</span><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A database management system of offers of skills, needs for skills, and project ideas in the Boston fashion industry. Hopefully we can start with “MyZDesign” See www.zweave.com</span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">SECOND STEP: CREATE SELF-EMPLOYED COLLABORATORIES <br />(SEC)</span><br /><br />1. A leader establishes a possible project, and searches database for right people.<br /><br />2. Each person involved in the project is self-employed & responsible for all their own business processes, and for all decisions. Each has registered on the database what skills they offer and what skills they need. <br /><br />3. Each buys from others as they need, or forms separate collaborative groups to own a part of the pattern design, production making, promotion or selling of a total project or product. <br /><br />4. For every transaction a contract is agreed upon and signed dealing with price, time and conditions when paid.Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-74310101588567924342008-06-11T10:13:00.000-07:002008-06-11T10:33:14.939-07:00A Position Against Copyright Law in Fashion Design<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9zunHcEL9dFQbkQHlsIiFXlRKPaIJdD4rcZHGweByjxOpWGIm17I8wGK3dLc26zbWOwCsFE9kwbHImyY3-c4WVr0InOznE6Li3xwJXmu6FSckP5b3LlLNIe483RriRjBY6AIYug/s1600-h/Wall,+Des.+%26+Mfg.jpeg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9zunHcEL9dFQbkQHlsIiFXlRKPaIJdD4rcZHGweByjxOpWGIm17I8wGK3dLc26zbWOwCsFE9kwbHImyY3-c4WVr0InOznE6Li3xwJXmu6FSckP5b3LlLNIe483RriRjBY6AIYug/s320/Wall,+Des.+%26+Mfg.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210674178545411602" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-cb5m834egEWtQelXqW6H3faMTCAdAqsXW8lpim4t1OFcDbMk1QnSygt45VNvyAWWFVSILLI8jOpLfmu1Plkyr21W6OWM-7Xz9IxPPsPzF-XA1c_DL2Og5B-bbb5MfEsii77Kg/s1600-h/Eve.+gown,+jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-cb5m834egEWtQelXqW6H3faMTCAdAqsXW8lpim4t1OFcDbMk1QnSygt45VNvyAWWFVSILLI8jOpLfmu1Plkyr21W6OWM-7Xz9IxPPsPzF-XA1c_DL2Og5B-bbb5MfEsii77Kg/s320/Eve.+gown,+jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5210673881435880018" /></a><br /><br />On June 9, in Newport, RI, The Copyright Society of U.S.A., had their annual meeting. I was asked be on the panel of “Copyrighting Couture”, to present my position on the recent legislation going through Congress on a copyrights for fashion design. I presented two plates shown here. What follows is first the 2 minute talk I gave, and second the paper that everyone could download. <br /><br />1. The battle in copyright law is really between big brand, celebrity designers – most of whom <span style="font-style:italic;">do not do their own designing</span>, and whose profits protect their old hat production – and with tiny (DEs) design entrepreneurs, who have no voice in Washington - and with the copyright law would soon be extinct. <br /><br />The “Wall Between Design & Manufacturing” is a plate for an NSF grant in 1989 – showing design and manufacturing <span style="font-style:italic;">not communicating.</span> The wall was built by fashion school graduates who didn’t learn how to produce and romantic media promoting that designers didn’t have to know – only celebrity matters. The copyright law in <span style="font-style:italic;">design</span> would make an even bigger schism – and further kill our industry in America. <br /><br />Innovative production and pattern technologies help reduce prices and raise quality, and are more integral of the true fashion <span style="font-style:italic;">industry</span> – than the <span style="font-style:italic;">look </span>of styles – and doesn’t get, and doesn’t need, government protection. Fashion design is nothing without manufacturing. There are top brand labels copying themselves now, with fast, inexpensive and quality productions - <span style="font-style:italic;">that is the future.</span> AAFA, representing manufacturers, are against the present copyright law proposal.<br /><br />Promotion to sell <span style="font-style:italic;">my name</span> wasn’t necessary – I sold great products I manufactured myself – such as this evening gown in suede. The stitchers could put the shell together in 15 minutes, and it wouldn’t sell that cheap, so I made 60% profit. How silly to copyright the <span style="font-style:italic;">look</span>. Production is far more important. I designed tools that made buttonholes much higher quality, ten times faster, and the look from the tool helped it sell more. None copied it because I wasn’t media famous. <br /><br />Today, I am devoted to a new fashion industry for young DEs, for consumers, and to help empower the disadvantaged – giving them my Stylometrics innovative pattern and production systems – <span style="font-style:italic;">for free to copy.</span> Everyone’s a designer – everyone copies – everyone makes money on <span style="font-style:italic;">making </span>– producing at low-cost. Fashion ideas are a dime a dozen.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">2-1. Copying has always been an integral and accepted practice in the American fashion industry.</span> (Learned from 60 years experience: apprenticing in 1940s factories, owning 3 corpo-rations (one design &manufacturing), & research in National Science Foundation grants.) <br />In the 18th century, dolls with French fashions were sent to American dressmakers to copy. In the 19th century fashion magazines printed “patterns” for American dressmakers to copy and cut. At the turn of the 20th century, Jewish tailors in Boston innovated production pattern making, and American fashion apparel, as an industry, was born. These technical designers still copied crea-tivity. Mid-20th century, fashion schools and colleges started – teaching French dressmaking methods, with design creativity, but with no production pattern knowledge. Toward the end of the 20th century, big fashion brand labels hired young designers to exploit their ideas, with fast turnovers, and big name retailers set up their own product development departments to copy, and with most doing offshore production. Young, creative, designer entrepreneurs (DEs) struggle for survival, with no respect from big business, little practical production knowledge, and very little availability to get small production lots made in America anymore. <br />* A graphic in all of my grants, “The Wall Between Design and Manufacturing”, shows the separation is getting increasingly worse, caused by the lack of communication between the two. Kurt Salmon Associates, 1989, reports, “Merchandising, what manufacturers call designing, is the least-effective function apparel companies perform…a process of creativity and luck. … Re-quirements can change as many as 50 times [from design to making].” The chart, (late 1980s) shows Brand Name Manufacturers as top control. Today that would change with Retailer Brand Names as top control. <br />* CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) (big names) started the battle for a copy-right law. Their president, Diane Von Furstenberg, says, “My job is to protect the [big name] designers, but the clothing manufacturers want something else.” – validating the bigger wall be-tween design and manufacturing, as well as between big and small designers. <br />* I fought for these DEs against “big business” as a delegate to the White House Conference on Small Business in 1986, and again as an evaluator of Manufacturing Technology Centers for the National Research Council in 1992. <br />* Chris Sprigman, in Virginia Law Review, adds: “The global fashion industry produces a huge variety of creative goods without strong IP protection. Copying is rampant as the orthodox ac-count would predict. Yet innovation and investment remain vibrant.” <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">2-2. A copyright law in fashion design would further smash young design entrepreneurs’ hopes, because every idea would have to be tested against all existing ideas.</span> <br />* AAFA- American Apparel & Footwear Association (manufacturers), has come out in opposi-tion to the legislation and sent a letter to each member of the House and Senate explaining these concerns. If enacted, these bills would make legitimate companies, and their legitimate designs, vulnerable to a litany of excessive litigation and bogus claims. The inherent subjectivity in both the “substantial similarity” standard for infringement and the “distinguishable variation over prior work” standard for protection would expose footwear and apparel companies, retailers, designers and ultimately the consumer to unneeded costs and uncertainty that could stifle fash-ion design innovation. Moreover, we believe there are practical logistical considerations that would make such a design registry difficult, if not impossible, to operate.<br />Design (fashion or any industry) must not be separated from its technical design and manu-facturing. Young DEs are the future of America and its free enterprise system. Please, let’s not force every young designer to be controlled by big brands, or by a government that only works for big business and does not understand entrepreneurship and innovation<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">2-3. Copying great art and design is critical for students to learn what “excellence” is, especially technical and production excellence</span>. <br />In the Renaissance all learning was by apprenticeship to the great art masters, and is the way fashion apparel, as an industry, started at the end of the 19th century, learning from pattern de-sign masters – and in Boston!! It is the way I approach it today when guiding creative protégés who already have active and successful small business enterprises, but need continual help with technical design and production. My number one protégé, Teresa Crowninshield, is a rising de-sign star in New England. Her cashmere and silk coats and jackets are exquisitely innovative, but she builds each one by copying my fundamental pattern templates, and by copying, for study purposes, other designers’ shapes of myriad parts. In the 1970s on Seventh Ave., New York, pattern makers from different firms would exchange and copy each other’s specific patterns, such as a collar or sleeve, to assure excellent shaping. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">2-4. The attention that fashion design innovation is getting is a positive even though I am against a copyright law for it. </span><br />What lawyers, academics, and business people – on both sides of the argument, and for all indus-tries - can do is, first, clearly define what design innovation really is; and second, attempt some methodologies for measuring/evaluating design innovation. On the New York Times Freako-nomics Quorum, April 25, “How Can We Measure Innovation?”, John Seely Brown was quoted and names 4 types: “Incremental innovation, cheaper, thinner, faster and, of course, more features. … Architectural innovations, involve a restructuring of the very building blocks of a product family, industry, or infrastructure. …Disruptive innovations, from a societal point of view… . institutional innovations, enable society to function.” Because apparel is 3D, great fashion design through history are architectural innovations. But, like architecture it-self, it cannot be separated from its tangible building and production processes. My very success-ful evening gown in suede in the 1970s is an example of architectural innovation. The production process of setting up images on the machines so the stitchers could make the shell of the gown in 15 minutes was even more innovative that the unique patterning of seams. No one ever copied this gown or any other successful style, because – as I learned – they could not copy my efficient production system. My Stylometrics image language, for which I received 3 NSF grant awards, and today I call “Foundation Pattern Templates”, is an architectural innovation, involving build-ing blocks for fashion apparel designs. <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Please let’s learn how to solve our design and business problems without government con-trolling our lives and our businesses. </span>Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-45469662584069528512008-01-01T09:36:00.000-08:002008-01-01T10:18:08.574-08:002008 NEWS from BOSTON DESIGN LAB (BDL)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlnWyzywrA6IOu44YmpEHIlyzlyJV2mCvv5RHu2Gt0NVYtt6iwXTlO6lsh9wtMDPKOp4rqGxtgmiI0c1-RLZy3gMOaWVDNKCnCnWDUwOay3XpfEz5QwMdH9Yk7DOlGYuJQCDmvoA/s1600-h/2D,3D,4D+image,jpeg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlnWyzywrA6IOu44YmpEHIlyzlyJV2mCvv5RHu2Gt0NVYtt6iwXTlO6lsh9wtMDPKOp4rqGxtgmiI0c1-RLZy3gMOaWVDNKCnCnWDUwOay3XpfEz5QwMdH9Yk7DOlGYuJQCDmvoA/s400/2D,3D,4D+image,jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5150568896643533714" /></a><br /><br />HAPPY NEW 2008!<br /><br />The purpose for Boston Design Laboratory™ (BDL) is to redesign the fashion industry in Boston, through creative research of new production technologies and new business structures – for consumers to obtain fashions at reasonable cost, and to help DEs (design entrepreneurs) and dressmakers to make a good income – increasingly more difficult in today’s markets. Our research divides the industry into 4 design functions, and forms collaborations of self-employed DEs to develop the new systems. The 4 functions were determined by Shirley Willett, the founder of BDL, in a 2004 paper prepared for Massachusetts Institute of Technology to compare design practices in the fashion apparel industry with other industries, as architecture and automobiles. <br /><br />In the 21st century every DE must have skills in 4 functions, or collaboratively link to all 4 – because services aren’t available. Each function requires <span style="font-weight:bold;">designing </span>– meaning <span style="font-weight:bold;">pre-planning</span>. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">1. CREATIVE DESIGN is the initial fashion idea with a plan for the functions of: 2) patterns, 3) marketing and 4) production.</span><br />When meeting, BDL functions as an informal <span style="font-weight:bold;">Design Room</span>, in which we critique each others’ designs, play with fabrics, study ideas for the right consumer, discuss the patterns and any technical problems, and plan the production of the first and repetitions. We are planning a small collaborative collection for 2008, to test BDL’s technology and business ideas. We are also considering a catalog of diverse design ideas at different stages for selling to DEs, dressmakers, and customers.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">2. PATTERN DESIGN & ENGINEERING: Patterns are information systems, planned and engineered for production processes, and includes information on specific consumer types.</span><br />The <span style="font-weight:bold;">Stylometrics Pattern Templates</span>, a foundation pattern making system, was researched in NSF grants and tested by many designers and dressmakers, for making pattern design easier, faster, ready for produc-tion, and more adaptable to custom design. They are ideal for flat 2-D work or for creative draping as on an armature in sculpture. We are building an instruction booklet for selling them.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">3. MARKET DESIGN & SELLING is the presentation of fashion products to customers for their acceptance, and must have a pre-designed plan.</span> <br />For DEs and dressmakers to make a better income, without high prices which will destroy selling in today’s markets, many expensive middling costs must be studied and eliminated. In BDL, we are discuss-ing a possible Fashion Consultants collaboration for selling direct to consumers through trunk shows, home parties, etc. We are also planning some “fitting standards” for mass-produced custom. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">4. PRODUCTION DESIGN & ENGINEERING is the plan and management of production processes: cutting, sewing, pressing, trimming - one, many, custom.</span><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Stylometrics Templates</span> are designed for efficient production. BDL is designing a <span style="font-weight:bold;">Boutique Production</span> system for collaboratively making quality small lots or custom for less cost. Eventually we hope to collaboratively structure a “Timeshare Factory”, a place for Boutique Production.Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-58141314345330992522007-11-27T12:24:00.000-08:002007-11-27T12:39:27.348-08:00FASHION as a BUSINESS<span style="font-weight:bold;">Success for Design Entrepreneurs (DEs) in 21st C. Boston<span style="font-style:italic;"></span></span><br /><br /><br />Boston’s Jewish tailors started the apparel industry at the turn of the 20th century by creating <span style="font-style:italic;">production</span> patterns, teaching apprentices, setting up manufacturing shops, and copying creative designs. By mid-century dressmakers in New York and Boston fashion schools began producing creative designers. From the different learning backgrounds, a “wall” arose between creative design rooms and efficient manufacturing and pattern designers – with high costs from poor design management. As manufacturing went offshore in the 1980s, retailers began their own product development, adding CAD systems – and sameness took over. <br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Young designers who dream of creating “a collection” have presently no path, nor the knowledge, to materialize quality design ideas that can be produced efficiently to make an income.</span> If they could find a pattern maker and a contract shop, the costs would be prohibitive. Boston Design Lab (BDL) evolved to creatively solve these problems through the Stylometrics system (developed in National Science Foundation grants), and by innovating business structures. DEs must be willing to collaborate, working together to create these new systems in Boston. The aim is to eliminate <span style="font-style:italic;">many middling costs from designer to consumer</span>, without losing quality and uniqueness, and to set up IT (Information Technologies) to solve product lifecycle problems at POD (Point of design). <br /><br />Pattern Templates are part of the Stylometrics system, upon which DEs develop creative design ideas (by draping or flat work), to result in a pattern that is ready for efficient production. Sameness in product and processes give speed, efficiency and low-cost in production. The Templates are a foundation of sameness for creative 2-D art or 3-D fashion sculpture, and works to eliminate many costly repetitions<br /><br />Some innovative business structures in BDL are: <blockquote>“Boutique Production”</blockquote>; a <blockquote>“Timeshare Factory”</blockquote>; training fashion consultants to work with DEs for selling direct to consumers in trunk shows, expos, etc.; software, such as “Self AWear™” for collecting consumer preferences in databases; critiques for saleability to myriad market demographics; linking with a sewing professionals association, for making custom or small lots.Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-45933340387853442942007-11-20T11:52:00.000-08:002007-11-20T12:29:31.809-08:00BOSTON DESIGN LABORATORY™ Some information<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnioOSIHgT7ySJYY344xCPCA8eM_yUeWztF9yvlBEHMwzyzlTKX0eUK_yWhCW0TAHHZ7iVXNzMtmyoqK_TpJaJ6f8PPdLsytsAN6HnHj6SQKaaN-Zqj2l82iU6mT-V72J4LHLvbg/s1600-h/4+Des.+Div.+Tetra,+jpeg"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnioOSIHgT7ySJYY344xCPCA8eM_yUeWztF9yvlBEHMwzyzlTKX0eUK_yWhCW0TAHHZ7iVXNzMtmyoqK_TpJaJ6f8PPdLsytsAN6HnHj6SQKaaN-Zqj2l82iU6mT-V72J4LHLvbg/s200/4+Des.+Div.+Tetra,+jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5135022091042670466" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhLOdESqQJB-9_9r7fcpg8mE7WFBkcBkGa2R556Ca45hfnoWioDpseFhdyrUlaE66z5LjORFBqL8wbjGOWg6r74Iyj7U8K1J8nGV6zOfeMv41YC5x4VZXiUw6IQhzKYHRCkYxzg/s1600-h/BDL+logo,+jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhLOdESqQJB-9_9r7fcpg8mE7WFBkcBkGa2R556Ca45hfnoWioDpseFhdyrUlaE66z5LjORFBqL8wbjGOWg6r74Iyj7U8K1J8nGV6zOfeMv41YC5x4VZXiUw6IQhzKYHRCkYxzg/s200/BDL+logo,+jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5135021871999338354" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />The purpose for Boston Design Laboratory™ (BDL) is to redesign the fashion industry in Bos-ton through creative research of new production technologies and new business structures – in order that fashion design entrepreneurs and dressmakers can make a good income – increasingly more difficult in today’s markets. Our approach encompasses all aspects of the industry, collaborations in the ways the self-employed work together in creating solutions to problems. There are four divisions, determined by Shirley Willett, the founder, in a 2004 paper prepared for a Massachusetts Institute of Technology workshop to explain the future design of the fashion apparel industry. Information is collected in databases and other technologies for designer quality and efficiency at the Point of Design (POD-IT) <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">1) Creativity, Research & Resources.</span> <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Problem:</span> Much creativity in the fashion apparel industry has been lost with the mechanization of CAD/CAM technology, which has opened up extensive copying and repetitions. <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Future:</span>. All BDL designers and dressmakers start with the Stylometrics Pattern Templates, researched by Shirley Willett in a series of National Science Foundation grants, for achieving more beautiful, creative shaping, quality fitting, and efficient production of one-of-a-kinds, small or big production lots. The system is highly efficient for development of creative ideas and can reduce necessity of copying and sameness. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;"><br /> 2) Pattern Design & Engineering.</span> <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Problem:</span> Commodity apparel is completely mechanized in CAD pattern systems for low-costs in design and production – while high fashion is too random and expensive, poor time management from design to market. Unfortunately, there is nothing in between. <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Future:</span> The Stylometrics system is structured so that while designing and making the first sample (prototype), the pattern is also ready for production. The Templates are ideal for easy manipulation of flat 2-D work, or for creative draping as on an armature in sculpture.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">3) Production Engineering.</span><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Problem:</span> Sameness in product and processes give speed, efficiency and low-cost, but results in boring styles. Manufacturing in America of high fashion design is extremely limited and costly and non-existent for very unique ideas, small lots, one-of-a-kinds, or custom. <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Future:</span> It is integral to BDL’s mission to solve these problems through technical innovations linked to the Stylometrics system, which has a foundation of sameness upon which to build great creativity. BDL is working with the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PAAC) on “mass-produced custom”, and is proposing a “Boutique Production” concept.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">4) Marketing, Selling & Customers.</span><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Problem:</span> Too many middling costs, and distortion of consumer desires from the distance between designers and consumers. <br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Future:</span> Trunk shows, direct sales, and creative, collaborative marketing are integral parts of our research. Our dream is to make the customers an active part of the fashion industry, with a software program, “Self A-wear™” which will collect consumer desires, and a “Willett Design Room” (WDR) that can maintain the unique selling relationship. <br /><br />Emma left a comment on the last post: <blockquote>what are the styleometrics pattern templates? I am designing and making a modern wedding dress and was needing some help with how to make a pattern</blockquote><br /><br />Some of your question is answered above, but I realize not in any detail. If you live in the New England area, please contact me, and I can suggest some ways to help you with patterns. You can also read my website at http://www.shirleywillett.com You can also join the Boston Fashion Industry Meetup. Click http://fashion.meetup.com/1/Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-31625746962499701222007-10-28T12:14:00.000-07:002007-10-28T12:41:23.993-07:00Draping a Dress from Stylometrics Pattern Template<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_0URQo5KXA8XHN49Mc6DrN2jv5saeRc-pCHYr52Mb3Q3WLTUqso_IdDFAjPrHngxh28BjQmhsAiUuo_wSIwBqg5_JFjwRSTUcBqdjqTTOZZymCWiRivlaZQA17XqfEyl6791mw/s1600-h/Award,+sm.+jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_0URQo5KXA8XHN49Mc6DrN2jv5saeRc-pCHYr52Mb3Q3WLTUqso_IdDFAjPrHngxh28BjQmhsAiUuo_wSIwBqg5_JFjwRSTUcBqdjqTTOZZymCWiRivlaZQA17XqfEyl6791mw/s320/Award,+sm.+jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126469864519986354" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9slVPyeFLYdyvWO5ZyAWb9Oy99Fo5bU-4Ro72tBGj6cYG4fctX8P2-SAa6-9OYUnIxENwWNd2MPRFth6Q_kPcvyEFm6MsHmKo5i74k5d7DA0Tb2ZTmUwgwmRLkyRaVU77K11DRw/s1600-h/Temp.+AB+%26+Drapedr.jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9slVPyeFLYdyvWO5ZyAWb9Oy99Fo5bU-4Ro72tBGj6cYG4fctX8P2-SAa6-9OYUnIxENwWNd2MPRFth6Q_kPcvyEFm6MsHmKo5i74k5d7DA0Tb2ZTmUwgwmRLkyRaVU77K11DRw/s320/Temp.+AB+%26+Drapedr.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126469533807504546" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPu3ljcjSwb8gKU71F0Vn6PT8G4hpNFmPjoFWG8KQwegj8taE_MrpFIXsQLLYPPi_irh94Cnl57MEEmJ6fQpubnNz4ms2AxUpvZyvFFFdQ_ALxo5KPhiH2k5Hvxadeq5kJemh4zg/s1600-h/Bl.whte.dr.+me,+jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPu3ljcjSwb8gKU71F0Vn6PT8G4hpNFmPjoFWG8KQwegj8taE_MrpFIXsQLLYPPi_irh94Cnl57MEEmJ6fQpubnNz4ms2AxUpvZyvFFFdQ_ALxo5KPhiH2k5Hvxadeq5kJemh4zg/s320/Bl.whte.dr.+me,+jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126469151555415186" /></a><br /><br />The blue and white silk crepe dress is on me when I received a "Boston Fashion Week Ladder Award" sponsored by the Fashion Group International in September. It was for all my work to help young fashion entrepreneurs up the "ladder". The photo was tajen when I received a unique bouquet of roses from my fashion protégés at our Boston Design Lab fashion show. <br /><br />In a post on 12.26.2006, "Drape Dress" I showed the design for this dress, and the AB-1 Empire Template on which the dress was draped. I added the big bow. All the darts and the empire line was transformed into draping, which is something I love to do. By draping from a Template the dress maintains a "standard" of sizing and shaping,the lack of which is a significant problem that consumers face, especially with haute couture from around the world. <br /><br />I love comments and questions. If you have any about this process I will reply.Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33761240.post-27469474447746199552007-10-21T13:25:00.000-07:002007-10-21T13:37:44.955-07:00Boston Design Lab Fashion Show<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijh8j0YCgSz9ng6xMROIrxsPCFejeUGmZ3mgQS_PFYeqyjSXH1LsYVwHctk4F17aDQ_Jx3HREl0VPE8_eKlygnRTkUIV01nyuNDwqRAAgvYkD9GX4YccKTdEUiI6dn85U56IHD1w/s1600-h/Gaucho,+jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijh8j0YCgSz9ng6xMROIrxsPCFejeUGmZ3mgQS_PFYeqyjSXH1LsYVwHctk4F17aDQ_Jx3HREl0VPE8_eKlygnRTkUIV01nyuNDwqRAAgvYkD9GX4YccKTdEUiI6dn85U56IHD1w/s320/Gaucho,+jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5123889794273343122" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhQxZXjLsiknWB_WtAeAzOJS-rqFqY_MVsgJpT094wD4m55cvYigmOBuL1Xrj6fFApPEmjtrwKDxhd-T_lbEq44RXCmN4-qLYFYrQYqiHxcu_rpi38YR-UENHxgRfli6UKCu6ig/s1600-h/Orange+sunburst,jpeg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhQxZXjLsiknWB_WtAeAzOJS-rqFqY_MVsgJpT094wD4m55cvYigmOBuL1Xrj6fFApPEmjtrwKDxhd-T_lbEq44RXCmN4-qLYFYrQYqiHxcu_rpi38YR-UENHxgRfli6UKCu6ig/s320/Orange+sunburst,jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5123889549460207234" /></a><br /><br />First, I apologize for such a long time since my last post. But I am now going to be doing many posts, lots of photos from my fashion show, "Boston Design Lab" at the Hotel Commonwealth during Boston Fashion Week in September. These are two photos by Ron Ranere, Positive Image. You can see many more on his web site,http://www.positiveimage-boston.com/bdlweb/index.htm <br />There are also more photos on BostonFashion.com at http://www.bostonfashion.com/directory/bostondesignlab.html <br /><br />I will be getting up more this week, and will work out the problem of leaving comments. Thanks for your patience.Shirley Willetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17349731966417914038noreply@blogger.com0